Niacinamida (Vitamina B₃): Mecanismos y Aplicación en Medicina Estética

Niacinamide (Vitamin B₃): Mechanisms and Application in Aesthetic Medicine

What is it?

Niacinamide, or nicotinamide, is the physiologically active amide of vitamin B₃. It is water-soluble and acts as a precursor to essential coenzymes such as Nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD⁺) and Nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NADP⁺) . In aesthetic medicine, this active ingredient has gained relevance due to its multifunctional ability to modulate cutaneous physiological processes that impact epidermal homeostasis, barrier function, pigmentation, and inflammation.


Main mechanisms of action

1. Optimization of the epidermal barrier function

  • It stimulates the synthesis of ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol, essential components of the stratum corneum.
  • Reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), improving hydration and resistance to external factors.

2. Sebaceous regulation and balance of skin microbiota

  • Modulates sebaceous lipogenesis and reduces associated inflammation.
  • It has antimicrobial activity against Cutibacterium acnes .

3. Modulation of keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation

  • It promotes orderly cell renewal, reducing hyperkeratosis and improving texture.

4. Depigmenting action

  • It inhibits the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes by modulating the PAR-2 protein.
  • Useful in melasma, solar lentigines and post-inflammatory dyschromias.

5. Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity

  • Reduces the release of proinflammatory cytokines (IL-1, IL-6, TNF-α).
  • It decreases the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and dermal glycation processes.

Indications

  • Photoaging: improves fine lines, elasticity and tone.
  • Acne: reduces sebum, inflammation and active lesions.
  • Hyperpigmentations: melasma, solar lentigines, PIH.
  • Dermatitis and rosacea: soothing and barrier-repairing effect.
  • Pre- and post-procedure: in protocols with peels, laser, microneedles or pulsed light.

Integration into professional protocols

  • Combined routines: AM: antioxidants + photoprotection; PM: niacinamide for repair and regulation.
  • Recommended synergies: hyaluronic acid, retinoids, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA).
  • Precautions: Avoid simultaneous use with acidic vitamin C in the same application; alternate AM/PM.
Back to blog